Extremely limited travel outside of DC during May:

  • 1 trip
  • 3 airports (DCA, ALB, PHL)
  • 3 flight segments
  •  649 total miles
  • 1 night in a hotel

0513 travel log

 

0513 travel log 2

 

By the time I hit April and May, baseball season is in full swing (pun intended) so I’ve tried to limit my out-of-DC time during those months. Here’s a recap of my travel during the month of April:

  • 1 trip
  • 3 airports (IAD, NRT, HKG)
  • 4 flight segments
  •  17,189 total miles
  • 1 red-eye
  • 2 nights in a hotel

0413 travel log

0413 travel log2

Flying out of IAD yesterday I noted that all of the x-ray bins had been numbered. It clearly took work to do this. But when I ask some of the TSA officers no on had an answer.

20130415-033251.jpg

With a mix of business and personal travel during the month, March was a heavy travel month. Here’s a recap of my travel during the month of March:

  • 6 airports (IAD, DEN, ASE, ORD, PVG, PHX)
  • 2 train stations (Lorton, VA and Sanford, FL)
  • 10 flight segments
  •  22,357 total miles
  • 1 red-eye
  • 12 nights in a hotel
  • 1 night on a train
  • 847+ miles driving

0313 travel log

 

0313 travel log2

I’ve fallen drastically behind in keeping my travel log up-to-date.  February 2013 is long in the books as is March. February was a light month of travel compared to January and March. Here’s a recap of my travel during the month of February:

  • 2 airports (IAD, LAX,)
  • 2 flight segments
  •  4,575 total miles
  • 1 red-eye
  • 4 nights in a hotel

 

0213 travel log2

 

 

0213 travel log

Over the weekend I ate at Cock and Bowl in Occoquan, Virginia. Occoquan is a quaint town of about 1,000 residents. It houses a variety of small, boutique stores, restaurant choices, and a few ice cream shops. While it has carved out an identity as an artists’ community it blends quickly into the suburban landscape. The historical district is listed on the National Register of Historic places, but if didn’t also border the Occoquan river it would likely have long ago been swallowed whole by sprawl of the suburbs. The “downtown” district occupies only a few blocks before quickly giving way to both new and old residential areas. The town is frequented more heavily during the summer as the restaurants and ice cream shops spill onto their patios. The town also play host to several craft and art events as it holds fast to its identity as an artists’ enclave.

While I live just a few short miles from historic Occoquan and drive by it frequently, I have actually never eaten at any of the restaurants.  While looking for “something new” nearby, my wife came across Cock and Bowl and thought I’d like it since I lived several years in the Netherlands and spent significant time in Belgium.

The restaurant is a small establishment housed in an old residence at the end of an open alley with current residential units surrounding it.  Some might even call it “cozy” or “cute.” There is a large patio area outside that I’m sure is quite full long into the night in the summer months. The main floor has 4 or 5 tables and could accommodate 20 or so people. Upstairs there are another 4 or 5 tables – accommodating 20 more potential diners.  Upstairs is the house’s restaurant’s single restroom which still contains a bathtub – highlighting the underlying origin of the building.

As a Dutch and Flemish speaker, I spent all of my time in the Flemish-speaking region of Flanders. The decor and food of the restaurant pulls from both regions which probably sits fine with most patrons but given my personal experience living in the region, it felt just a little strange. The menu was in French and English, but there is both a Flanders salad as well as a Walloon salad which felt more touristy than authentic.

I don’t drink alcohol, but the restaurant appears to have a rich beer menu. I overheard the waiter talking diners through the vast beer menu and in looking around at the few occupied tables it seemed like there was a wide selection available and I imagine this is a strong attraction of the restaurant.  I noticed a stack of books on beer as well as a stock of magazines so I imagine the owners of the restaurant are well read on the topic.

We started with pommes frites and shrimp croquettes. The frites were good – even potentially authentic – though not quite hot enough.  Even the small size was overflowing. They were served with mayonnaise – nearly like we ate them frequently in Belgium.  I couldn’t quite tell if it was authentic Belgian mayonnaise.  The croquettes were equally delicious.

I din’t take many pictures, but following the frites and croquettes I felt compelled to order mussels and so ordered the Moules de Terre. While several of the entrees on the menu sounded good, they didn’t seem authentically Belgian recipes.

0213 Cock and Bowl

As the the photo shows, the bowl was nearly overflowing with mussels. It was a very generous portion and I found them cooked perfectly. I thought the addition of spinach, bacon, and tomatoes turned the dish into a near-hardy soup.  I would return to Cock and Bowl for mussels alone and would love to try their other varieties.  I would expect they are each delicious.

We couldn’t eat at a Belgian restaurant without finishing with “wafels”. Here I was sorely disappointed.  Brussels is of course famous for their waffles. Here are some photos of authentic Belgian waffles in Brussels.

Authentic Belgian waffles – I almost want to refer to them as authentic Brussel’s waffles because that is where I ate them most frequently – are very specific.  What Cock and Bowl serves are what Americans call Belgian waffles. They were light – where authentic Belgian waffles are a bit more dense.  The chocolate is also very different. I think Cock and Bowl was using chocolate syrup whereas a real chocolate on a real Belgian waffle is thicker, melted chocolate.

Besides the huge waffle let-down, Cock and Bowl is a great little find. The portions are large and the prices reasonable.  I will definitely be going back.  Just skip desert.

January 2013 is in the books.  Here’s a recap of my travel during the month:

  • 8 airports (IAD, LAS, MUC, HEL, FRA, DCA, DFW, SLC)
  • 10 flight segments
  • 18,774 total miles
  • 1 red-eye
  • 10 nights in a hotel

0113 travel log

 

January 2013 Travel Log
 

I love the idea of travel logs and I’ve always been attracted to well written travel logs.

In the late 1990s, after studying in the Middle East, I spend several months in Europe on a long layover back to the U.S. I had my own On the Road moment if you will. During this wander I also read some of the classic travel logs like George Orwell’s 1933 Down and Out in Paris and London. This book in particular influenced how I travel.  What I think about when I travel.  What I seek out when I travel.

During this trip, I wrote extensively and often think of one day publishing that log. I crossed borders on boats and trains. I hitchhiked. I was robbed. I ate. I slept in parks and fields and once in a “lorry” as I stole a ride across from England to France with the white cliffs of Dover at my back and continued across France because I had little else to do.

But mostly I thought.  I spent most of those months alone and so I was left with myself. And my personal thoughts grew into something more than just sounds in my head.  When you are alone for months at a time in worlds far from ones you recognize your thoughts gain mass.  They gain form. Upon reflection, I realized it is glimpsing these innermost thoughts produce classics.

I think of reading Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air or Peter Hessler’s Oracle Bones (which I read on my own first flight to China). I recall George Orwell’s Down and Out in Paris and London.

I travel extensively for work and so I thought I should keep a dialog of my travels. When I redesigned this blog, I included a travel section where I could specifically capture these writings. The problem is I’ve initially set it up as reviews of restaurants and hotels.  But yesterday I started reading Paul Theroux’s the Kingdom by the Sea. And I once again realized it really the reviews I enjoy (reading and writing).  It is the chance to stowaway with another’s thoughts.  If but for a minute, these gifted writers introduce you to their traveling companion.  Not dissimilar to the one I had as I slogged across Europe alone.

I’m behind on dozens of trip reports and hoping I can use some of December to get caught up.  In the last few months, I’ve been to Istanbul, Singapore, London, Stockholm, Tokyo, Taipei, Houston, Phoenix, and Minneapolis among other destinations .  I’d planned to write a trip report for each, but have failed to make the time.  In January I head to Las Vegas for CES early in the month and then to Finland and Salt Lake City later in the month. I hope to finish some of these past trip reports before these next ones come and go – though they might not be as robust as I had originally imagined. Rather than dividing them into multiple posts, I might just summarize them across one or two posts.

While it is fresh on my mind, and a relatively short trip to chronicle, I wanted to write about our overnight in Washington, DC. Yesterday we had a quasi-staycation in the city.  For many years it has been a family tradition to see the trains at the National Botanical Gardens and we decided to wrap the tradition into a night in the city.

Earlier in the year, I participated in Starwood’s (second quarter?) promotion where upon ten nights, you were awarded one free weekend night.  Over the promotional period I had exactly 10 stays across Starwood properties. I  had nearly forgotten about it and ultimately I actually redeemed the free weekend night on the last possible day.  While I looked first at the St. Regis (naturally), the promotion was limited to category 5 hotels which ruled out the St. Regis.  I ended up booking the W which was ideal for our plans.

The Washington DC W began life in 1917 as the Hotel Washington.  Famous for its proximity to the White House and its rooftop terrace which provided the backdrop for “The Godfather: Part II” and other movies. We arrived at the W at around 7:30PM. We just missed hot cider in the lobby which technically ended at 7PM and was being cleared when we noticed it. Late last month, I hit my 25th stay of the year at a Starwood property which elevated my to Platinum status. As a result we were upgraded to a suite. Our suite – room 1020 – was the corner suite overlooking 15th and F streets. We overlooked the Treasury Building to the East and could see the roof of the White House.  We could also see the National Christmas Tree – the proximity to which was one of our motivating factors for picking the W.

I was a bit apprehensive to take my kids to the W because it isn’t a hotel were one frequently sees many kids.  However, another family was checking-in in front of us and I saw other families in the lobby as well as spoke to a father who stayed at the hotel the same night as we did with his son while his wife took care of last minute Christmas items. Several of the kids I saw were wearing clothing for DC sports teams suggesting some of these other families were local and doing quasi-staycations as well.

A few minutes after arriving in our room, the doorbell rang and our welcome amenity arrived.  While I always appreciate the gesture, as someone who doesn’t drink I’m always slightly disappointed when given wine or some other alcoholic beverage. As the photo shows though – milk and cookies were the perfect amenity for this trip.  Kudos to the W and to whomever made this perfect call.  I spend a fair amount of my life traveling, but the rest of family obviously doesn’t travel as much so traveling is still a novelty for them.  This set the perfect tone for the entire stay.

After enjoying our milk and cookies we walked over to the National Christmas tree for a moment.  The kids weren’t ecstatic about this and even tried to argue against it by suggesting we didn’t need to go see it since we could see it out our room window, but once we got out and walked over they enjoyed seeing the trains circling the tree and trying to throw pennies into the train cars. Afterwards we headed back to the room and the boys then proceeded to turn the bath/shower area into a giant indoor pool – to make up for the lack of a pool at the hotel. We closed out the night by watching Arthur Christmas and drinking hot chocolate in the living area.

In the morning we forewent breakfast at the hotel – though I’ve had steaks at J&G Steakhouse and would recommend it. Instead I took the family to Market Lunch at Eastern Market.  We were planning to go to Ted’s Bulletin at Barrack’s Row for homemade pop tarts but it was closed upon arrival. Almost all of the restaurants along Barrack’s Row were closed as well so we opted for Eastern Market.  When my wife and I first moved back to DC we spend many weekends looking at houses in the district and especially in the Capitol Hill area where we would frequently grab breakfast at Market Lunch however we’ve only been back a few times in the last few years.

The Market Lunch – together with all of Eastern Market – is a classic DC landmark.  It is even better after the rebuilding that took place after the fire a few years ago and Market Lunch is still the anchor attraction.  The menu is scratched out in white chalk on the chalkboards that hang over the line which can stretch 50+ deep on a given weekend morning as it weaves between the food counter and the raised family-style table and stools. There are literally hundreds of profiles written about this cash-only establishment and nothing I write here will add to that which has already been written.

Despite it being a Monday, Market Lunch was serving their weekend menu which meant Eggs Benedict. My wife ordered The Crab Cake Ben with grits. While I found the abundance of hollandaise sauce a bit excessive the menu name is fitting because the giant serving of crab cake really made it crab cake first and Eggs Benedict second. The grits were mixed with hot sauce and something else I believe which made them some of the best grits I’ve had. I’ m not a huge grits fan – they can be truly hit or miss and when they are miss they are either excessively dry or excessively salty. These grits were creamy with just the right amount of flavor – even sans the dollop of butter they added to the top.

I consider myself a sort of Eggs Benedict connoisseur and try them frequently when traveling. I even once considered starting a blog dedicated to Eggs Benedicts from around the world. When traveling I often get to try the “local approach” to Eggs Benedict, but I’ve never seen Eggs Benedict with fried green tomatoes so I ordered the Fried Green Tomatoes Ben. Here again I found the abundance of hollandaise sauce to be too much and I found it lacking in the robust flavor I’ve had in other places, but the fried green tomatoes with the Eggs Benedict was a great combination. Neither of our orders were served with bacon nor ham as I recall, but I also didn’t find that lacking. It is also worth noting the use of large fresh rolls as opposed to English Muffins. They had sold out of french toast so my older two boys split a full order of buttermilk pancakes while my youngest (and perhaps biggest eater) had two eggs, potatoes, and bacon before finishing out the remaining pancakes.  A perfect breakfast following a great stay.